Massage

About body work in Thailand...everyone gets it. Its on every street (literally out on the street); reflexology, herbal massage, Thai massage. I even had something called Guasha done on my arm. The edge of a coconut shell is rubbed on the skin until the blood vessels rise to the surface and break. No, it doesn't feel good, but I just wanted to see what happened. Although I didn't realize it at the time, the therapy I had on my arm was used to relieve gas...I didn't even have gas...a language barrier problem. The therapist kept asking me how I was feeling during the therapy, I kept saying fine. At least now I know what it feels like.

Okay, Thai massage. A full massage takes 3 hours! In my book, its a lot more like passive yoga then massage. It feels good, but is NOT always comfortable. Having completed my course, its a strenuous procedure for the therapist. It is all done on the floor, and there is lots of lifting, bending, and pulling, for both the therapist, and the client. If you're interested, come and try it at deliver me yoga.

Monk Chat and Songkran

Songkran is fun...until you actually have to be dry for something. We spent the afternoon throwing water at strangers and having the same done to us. Some water was murky, some freezing from giant blocks of ice in it. Although it has it's negatives, the festival really brings out the most in the culture...everyone is happy and is having fun...with crazy Hawaiian style shirts and giant water guns wielded by groups of people in backs of trucks. Everyone is a good sport. You walk down a street and see foreigners and Thai's all laughing and dancing to loud music together. Occasionally, you'll get a woman who comes up behind you, pulls back your shirt, dumps cold water down your back, and says, "Happy new year!" It's really quite hilarious. Interestingly, there is no police force in evidence whatsoever. That's pretty much the standard for everyday...cops work from 9-5 and leave a skeleton crew to mand the phone until morning. We haven't seen one police car/ambulance/firetruck since we've been here.

Okay...we assumed that when we needed to go out and be dry, the festivities would simply go away for us. We were wrong. Within 30 seconds of snagging a Tuk-tuk behind the sanctuary of a brick wall, we had been ambushed and drenched by four year olds carrying buckets of water. So, our meeting with Nu, our monky friend, was very soggy. He didn't seem to care. The meeting was interesting. One of the monks actually left our conversation because his robe started ringing! And, just as we were beginning our query about the incongruent behaviors we had observed on the street, a very British 'advisor' sat down and became very defensive about the behavior of the monks. We weren't being disrespectful, but we definitely got the 'back-off' vibe from this guy. Page kept poking me under the table to remind me to keep my cool. Thankfully, right as he was starting to get cocky, he had to leave to take care of something. So, we got Nu all to ourselves. He was very sweet, and answered every question we asked, from meditation to karma, why the shaved head, ect... To him, the most important thing in his life was knowledge, and he was enjoying his life as a monk, but would not be surprised if he woke up tomorrow morning, and was called to do something else. He lives in the moment...and cooks for the pack of stray dogs who live at the temple. He doesn't worry about stepping on ants because he does not have the intention of hurting them. It's definitely complicated, but very interesting, and he willingly spent an hour and a half with us discussing his life.

Nu sleeps only three hours a night, but he looked really rested! He took a ten law vow when he became a monk, he could only remember 7 of the vows though...it seemed like the ones he did remember were pretty important; no killing, no lying, no stealing, you get the idea.

(we got some of our interview with him on film, and will post it when we return)

Behind the Scenes

Our survey is stunning...but we continue to be thwarted by technology. Some amazing video of inverviews is coming, but we won't be able to do it until we get home. But, this was a huge part of our trip, and we think we'll be very interesting to watch. We met people the girls' age who had never been to school, have no electricity, no indoor plumbing, no technology, and no transportation. We have laughed with them and connected with them on a less superficial level because of our talented guide, Don Wilcox. He was able to create a connection and bring out the real humanity of these people, for us to see.

So please hang in there for the good stuff, it's coming!

Thai's and Feet

Thai people have a thing about feet; they consider feet the most unclean part of the body, therefore, they don't want to see them, and they certainly don't want to touch them, and by all means, they don't ever want a holy person to see them...that means statues of Buddha or monks. That means you crawl when inside a temple to pray to the Buddha, and you back away.

Because of this, Thai people make an effort not to step over you. They spend a lot of time sitting on the floor. For instance, when we were playing cards in our cramped hotel room on the floor, Honey (our little Thai visitor), politely asked Page to slide over so she could get by to use the bathroom. She wouldn't step between us or over Page's legs.

Even on the most habitual of visits, Thai people arrive with a garland of jasmine flowers...the smell is awesome! I say we adopt this in the US.

thoughts

Logan knows the location of every 7 Eleven, KFC, and Pizza shop in Chiang Mai.
We have been dealing with ersatz-type TP here, if there is any at all...and yes, we have mastered the squat toilet.
There are major tuk-tuk scammers here. Page is outraged!

Movies

Today, the girls and I went to the Chiang Mai Airport Plaza Mall and saw Clash of the Titans. We bought our own DVD for a buck fifty last week, and thought we were getting some black market version early release totally illegal version of the new movie, before it was even released...we felt SO badass. We got it home, popped it in the DVD player, and low and behold...even though the picture on the cover was from the new movie, this was the 1981 movie starring Harry Hamlin. So not okay. But back to the movies...we stood in line for at least 15 minutes to get the tickets, way more time then we would have had patience for at home, considering there were only about six people ahead of us...I mean, really, how long does it take to sell a ticket...even though you do get to choose your seats on a digital screen on the counter before you. A large popcorn here is what Americans would consider a small there. The whole shmeer cost us a little over 10 dollars, including the tickets and 3-D glasses. Deal? I think yes. Before the movie starts, there is a 3 minute tribute video to the king, where everyone stands and sheds a tear or two, for the continued health of their beloved king. There are also about 5 commercials in total all about whitening creams. We see these creams everywhere...seems like Thai women want to be white, where we want to be dark. About the movie, we thought it was about equal to what we paid. Page liked it though, so I have to be nice.

birthday

So thanks for all my great birthday wishes, my day was great! I spent it on the Mae Kong River in a long boat with a spiffy car engine on the back--it goes very fast...so that all that herione can make it across. We went to Laos for about 20 minutes, came back, went to the sitting Buddha shrine, rubbed the belly of an elephant for good luck, and me and the girls were blessed by a monk after we made offerings of money, insence, and prayers. He asked us what day of the week we were born because here, there is a corresponding color for every weekday. We didn't know, so we just chose our favorites...the monk seemed okay with that, and sprinkled us with holy water and admired my goyles. I am very lucky, even without an elephants belly.

The Songkran festival is just 4 days away, and we are spending the day getting ready--we need cheap Hawiian style shirts, plastic bags (to keep our wallets and other things dry), and although we've been trained away from carrying weapons for our entire lives, we will be packin', water guns that is. Today, we are going to the Airport Plaza Mall to see a movie and shop around. In the past week, mom has attended a Thai massage class at the Old Medicine School in Chiang Mai. She is very sore, but all of her hard work has paid off--she is now a certified Thai Massage Therapist, and she met many interesting foreign students in the program. Her graduation consisted of many blessings and a special bindi-type mark applied to her forehead with some very authentic sounding prayers and a special string on her wrist for luck, health, and prosperity. She didn't understand it, but she thinks they covered all the bases. Logan and I went to the zoo by ourselves and saw the aquarium. We met a tourist who was hit by a motorcycle--not hard to do here. We have a date with a monk on Monday, should be interesting. We are planning to ask him some very pointed questions. The monks here seem to be very hypocritical. Although they have taken a vow of poverty, we have seen them accepting rides, using cell phones, smoking, and shmoozing with women. Of course mom wants to ask how they feel about choice. I have to write a paper about the corruption in Thailand and religion (monks) are one of the branches of my research topic. This little monk does not see us coming.

Tips to staying alive in Bangkok:

1. Do not wear a red tee-shirt outside.

2. Do not gather in groups of more than 5 people.

3. ...just avoid Bangkok.

Thailand is used to peaceful demonstrations, and the Red-Shrits have become a bit aggressive. We're more used to this in the US, but we aren't being stupid.

it's very dissapointing, i can't seem to get the videos to work!! so many good ones, of elephants and rituals and girls my age (16-20). but we've been very busy visiting minority tribes in chiang rai. i'll post more in the morning

miss you all!!

here is a little of what we're up to right now...

sorry i can't get videos up

Chaing Mai

We've made it! Unfortunately, I can't figure out how to upload pics/videos from this computer. We just had the most amazing day, full of elephant rides ect!!! First we took an ox-cart ride to a tribal sales market and when we finished we took an elephant back to camp where we boarded onto the oxes. Afterwards we ate a hurried lunch and then to the bamboo rafts. Our raft drivers were hilarious. They were poking us with their wet poles and yelling "ANACONDA!!!" or "CROCODILE DUNDEE!!!" Finally we took the tour car up to a hemp-making hut called Hmong. Then at seven we went to an "authentic" Thai ceremonial service thing. We ate spicy food outside and watched the musicians and dancers on the stage placed infront of us. As soon as we found ourselves tired we left the building and found a paper balloon lighting service. The balloon is lit from the bottom around a carrosine ring and then it floats away symbolizing letting go of bad kharma.

Research and Development for deliver me yoga:

In Japan, shiatsu, performed by a blind therapist, did a great deal to ease discomfort in my legs. I would recommend it!
However, although I did come away with one tidbit that deliver me yoga will use (a lovely bowl of fresh orchid blossoms floating in a dish below my face rest), let's face it, I could have traded Logan a snickers bar to perform the "relaxing massage" I recieved yesterday in our swanky Thai hotel. The lesson learned is that just because it's an expensive hotel, it doesn't mean the MT's have their mojo working.

Today, we go off to Chang Mai on the night train to meet Don Wilcox tomorrow morning. Thailand is HOT.

Not sure the next time we'll write, but we'll try our hardest to find a computer!

Love you all!
The Hills

Thoughts

While in Japan, I heard that a gallon of gasoline is cheaper than a gallon of water in Dubai!

There is no single word for 'no' in the Japanese language.

If you commit suicide by jumping in front of a train in Japan, your family will be fined for the inconvenience. The fine will be greater if it happens during rush-hour.

Survey Part B

And so, the plot thickens...I knew the responses to the survey were way too far within the confinds of my comfort zone. They meet my need to believe that we all want the same things- love, happiness, connection to others.

An astute interviewee queried, the question really should not only be what, but how? So all of you good friends who have already participated in our survey, c'mon back and tell us how you would get whatever the most important thing in your life is.

THAILAND

Finally, we've arrived in Bangkok! It's really strange here. There are half naked monks sitting under trees everywhere. Because of the demonstrations going on (some citizens don't like the current Prime Minister) there are armed soldiers with massive guns and mob sheilds everywhere...very odd. Unfortunately, we're not sure the next time pictures will be put up because of the computer situation, but we'll try our best. Today, we visited the king's Royal Palace and saw another Buddha. Logan and I got facials, while my mom got a massage. The Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel is SO nice. Tomorrow we look forward to the floating market!! Missing the USA...but still having an AWESOME time...
The Hills

Finishing up Japan

Unfortunately, our stay in Shirokane has come to an end. These are our last few days here. Today, we fly to Bangkok! Hopefully, we'll have internet there. Wish us luck!

Day Three: Edo Period Farmhouse, Harajuku, Bath House

Today we saw a really old farmhouse which was used until the late 80's, believe it or not. After the farmhouse, we went into Harajuku and saw a bunch of Japanese girls dressed up in crazy clothes. The make-up and dresses are so amusing! In the late afternoon we visited a Bath House with real-live naked people. It was...an interesting experience.

early cherry blossoms in the park at the Jidayubori Minka-en (old Edo period farmhouse)

Day Two: Fish Market, $ Washing Temple, Buddha

In the morning, we visited the fish market. All of the businessmen who are involved in the market come really early to an auction where the fish are sold and bought. We had to be respectful, because while we wanted to take photos and stare wide-eyed at the fishermen gutting fish, it was still an official place where people were there to worry about their business. It was so crowded. In the first video, you can see there are people going around on these little cart/car things that go really fast. You had to be aware of your surroundings at all times or else you'd get run over! Everyone is pushing and shoving. We were constantly stepping in puddles of thawed ice from the frozen fish; it was gross. After the market, we went to the 'Money Washing' Temple, where people go to, literally, wash their money. We put our money in some woven baskets, took some of the holy cleansing water, and ladled it over our bills. You light incense before it, and do a little prayer after it. Apparently, the ritual is supposed to 'double' your money. It encourages those to put out and share their wealth, and hopefully, in return, they'll receive positive things back (can't think of a better way to say it). After cleaning our cash, we saw the Great Buddha. Standing 13.5 m feet tall, it is Kamakura, Japan's most famous sight. Then, we took a walk through the town to get some lunch. There was a MASSIVE wind storm. We're talking, being able to stand at a 70 degree angle having the wind holding us up, massive. After we got home, it took Page a good thirty minutes to brush her hair out. I'd say we had a pretty fulfilling day.